The IRS Currently Not Collectible Status: A Tax Guys Magic Wand

I’ll say it.  The IRS Currently Not Collectible status is THE BEST.

Anyone with a big tax problem, with neither the resources nor time currently available to resolve said tax problem, should look into being classified as Currently Not Collectible.

The complexity and depth of tax laws and financial obligations can sometimes lead even the most diligent and proactive individuals and businesses into some really dark places.

A great fear many people share is that fear of the IRS coming and taking your car or cleaning out your bank accounts.

Yeah.  That can happen.  But you really have to screw up for them to go that far.  As long as you communicate with them, they will work with you on your tax problem.

Financial hardships happen.  If paying your taxes becomes an insurmountable burden, the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) offers a lifeline in the form of the Currently Not Collectible (CNC) status.

A Currently Not Collectible status won’t relieve you of your liability.  What it does is give you a temporary reprieve from IRS collection activity, and time to reboot your financial life.  CNC status lasts from 6 to 12 months.  It is possible (probable in my experience) that if approved, you will be on CNC status multiple years

How To Qualify for CNC Status

On the surface this seems easy.  You can’t pay.  You don’t have the money.  Your hours were cut back, or you were laid off and can’t find another good job.

The cornerstone of obtaining CNC status is by demonstrating your financial hardship. This entails showcasing an inability to pay basic living expenses due to dire financial circumstances.

You prove your hardship by showing bank statements, bills, past due notices…any third party documentation that can paint a clear picture of your hardship. Providing a complete and accurate picture of your financial situation is crucial, necessitating comprehensive documentation of income, expenses, assets, and liabilities.

How Do You Apply?

The application process is deep.  You will need to share everything as it relates to your financial health.  The key to being approved is to paint a picture of your situation using paystubs and bank statements to show income/money in, and bills, invoices and past due notices to show expenses/money out.

Prepare Form 433-F or 433-A, depending on your individual or business status. These forms serve as comprehensive snapshots of your personal and business situation.

The IRS takes this information, and reviews and analyzes the data to formulate an opinion as to your financial health.

If you are patient, diligent and thorough, you can put together a packet that gets you approved for CNC status.  However, if you don’t feel confident in dealing with an IRS Revenue Officer, contact a professional.  Be aware that not all CPA’s and Enrolled Agents do tax resolution.  Tax resolution is a specialty within the tax preparation realm. 

Now We Wait……..

Now the hard part (for you).  The IRS will analyze your documentation and poke and prod your finances until they understand where you are.

It’s very likely that the IRS will come back to ask for clarification, or additional information.  Make sure you get this to the Revenue Officer working with you ASAP.  Your Revenue Officer is working on upwards of 70 cases at a time, but if you get your info to them in an expedient way, they will bump you up their list of priorities.

After carefully scrutinizing your information, the IRS will issue a determination—approval grants the CNC status, temporarily suspending collection actions, while denial comes with an explanation of the reasons and alternative courses of action.

The Good, Bad and Ugly of CNC Status

What’s good about CNC status?

The benefits of obtaining CNC status are obvious. The IRS halts all collection activity against you.  You get a reprieve of sorts, allowing you to do what needs to be done to better your financial health.

A huge benefit (to me) is the fact that the IRS 10-year collection period DOES NOT TOLL.  This means it doesn’t stop.  This is a big deal since it reduces the time available for the IRS to pursue the tax debt.

What’s bad about CNC status?

On the surface, this does nothing with regards to reducing or paying your tax debt.  Interest and penalties also continue to accrue, adding to the debt.

What’s ugly about CNC status?

The ugly is the IRS doesn’t hand this status out like Tic Tacs (not TikTok for you Gen Zers :^)) .  It’s a complex process that involves a lot of back and forth with your Revenue Officer.

It also lasts just 6-12 months.  The IRS will require periodic updates to make sure nothing’s changed in regards to your finances.  This can also be a good thing.  If your financial situation remains static, say due to medical issues or a lawsuit, you may be able to retain CNC status for multiple years.

How can you lose CNC Status?

At the risk of sounding like a jerk, you’ll lose your CNC status if you start making enough money to pay something back each month.

Improving your financial situation will move you closer to losing CNC status.

If your situation hasn’t improved, then to maintain CNC status you must file all tax returns on time and pay your current taxes.  We don’t want to add to your already large balance. 

What can you do besides CNC Status?

Bankruptcy?

Removing federal taxes through bankruptcy is possible, but you have several hoops to jump through initially AND, the IRS can deny the write off.  I had a client qualify via bankruptcy to write off all but $350k of a $1.8mil tax debt.  IRS council denied the write off.  We ended up going a different route that cost the client $220k.  I wonder if that attorney lost their job?

Offer in Compromise?

If you’re in this position, and OIC is something to seriously consider.  You will probably be inundated with ads proclaiming they can get you off for “pennies on the dollar”.  An OIC might be the right direction, but it will cost you a lot more in professional fees.

Installment Agreement (or Partial Pay Installment Agreement)?

This is the most used option.  If you are having money problems now, I don’t see this as an option.  After taking a few years to clean up your finances, and depending on the sze of the tax debt, I can see using CNC to remove a few years from the 10-year collection window, then applying for a partial pay installment agreement.  This is the long way, but for a lot of people, the best way out.

Conclusion:  Using The Magic Wand That is Currently Not Collectible Status

CNC Status can be used in many different ways.

Time.

The IRS has 10 years to collect the tax you owe.  Use CNC Status to get the IRS to stop collection activity, thereby giving you time (and energy) to fix your money situation.

Easy to morph to another option.

You’ve already collected the info needed to prepare an Offer in Compromise, or a Partial Pay Installment Agreement.  If you foresee your financial situation remaining status quo for the foreseeable future, you may consider an Offer in Compromise at this time.

The same can be said about a Partial Pay Installment Agreement.  This option would be available if our situation improved a little and you could send “something” to the IRS.  You must also apply for a Partial Pay Installment Agreement.

Interest and Penalties.

Interest and penalties will continue to accrue, adding to our balance.  These are statutory charges, with minimal opportunity to remove.  Collection activity stops.  The debt doesn’t.

As a tax professional I’ve used CNC status A LOT.  When a client walks in looking like Eeyore, you know things are bad.  Tax problems are a big deal in the US.  There are over 14,000,000 open tax cases at the IRS.  Knowing the available options and how to use them is essential to getting you out of trouble.

But knowing how to use different options together is when you really save a lot of money.

So that’s it for today.  Thanks for your time and talk soon!

Stay cool.

JKC

Will an Offer in Compromise Relieve Me of this Horrible TFRP?

If the IRS has assessed a “Trust Fund Recovery Penalty” (TFRP) against you, you must take this very seriously.

As money withheld from employee paychecks, the IRS is very protective of this “Other People’s Money”. If this “other peoples money” is not properly deposited with the IRS, The TFRP will be assessed on those responsible for withholding and remitting payroll taxes to the government.

This penalty can be assessed on your own business, or, if you are an employee (not an owner of the business) and the withheld taxes have not turned over to the IRS, the could call you a “Responsible Person” and ask you to pay.

Wait!  That can’t be right, can it?  If you work for someone and part of your job duties were to prepare payroll, and your boss instructed you to NOT make the required payroll tax deposits, the IRS can hold you responsible???

Yep.  That’s what I’m saying.  Fair or not, the IRS calls this a “responsible person” penalty.  The IRS will always try and collect their money.

I. What’s a Trust Fund Recovery Penalty (TFRP) and Can an Offer in Compromise Help?

A. What’s a Trust Fund Recovery Penalty

Part of preparing payroll includes calculating the taxes to be withheld on each paycheck.  The company then adds their portion to this number and that would constitute that pay periods payroll tax deposit.

Most businesses will pay the payroll taxes withheld within a few days of payroll. If you owe less than $1,000 for a specific quarter, these taxes are paid when you file the quarterly payroll returns.

Payroll taxes are considered “Other People’s Money” (remember, you calculated the taxes to be withheld from your employee’s paychecks) so the IRS treats these payments a little differently than your income taxes.

That’s where the “Trust Fund Recovery Penalty” comes into play.  A responsible person can be the business owner(s) or the person tasked with preparing payroll and remitting taxes.

You CAN be a responsible person even if you don’t own any part of the business, or have signature authority on the bank accounts.

B. What’s an Offer in Compromise?

An Offer in Compromise is an IRS program designed to assist people with large tax debts (such as a trust fund recovery penalty) who won’t be able to pay without it horribly affecting their lives.

I don’t want to suggest that this is an easy way to get out of paying your taxes.  Ads claiming to get you out from under your big tax debt for “pennies on the dollar” are misleading.

The IRS is patient and will wait for you to pay. They have 10 years to collect. An Offer in Compromise may get you out of tax trouble, but you must qualify and the qualification bar is high.

There is also the cost of having someone prepare your application.  You can try yourself, but your chances of being approved are pretty low.  The OIC acceptance rate is usually around 33% overall (per the IRS in 2019).  You will see studies out there claiming anything from 5% to over 40%. 

C. Can an OIC help with my TFRP?

Short answer, yes.  But you have to qualify and the calculated amount must be less than the tax plus cost to prepare the application.

Let’s find out how to qualify.

II. Why The IRS Needs the Trust Fund Recovery Penalty (TFRP)?

A. Definition and Purpose of TFRP

The Trust Fund Recovery Penalty is put in place to ensure the government has enough money to operate.

Payroll tax deposits made by US businesses is the cash flow our government uses on everything it does.

When someone doesn’t remit the taxes withheld on peoples’ paychecks, there is less cash available to pay for things like our military, social security payments and money paid to states for things like education and Medicare.

How would your life be impacted if your employer stopped paying you, but still insisted that you kept working?  The TFRP allows the IRS to go after those who had responsibility to remit these withheld taxes.

B. How Does the IRS Know Who to Assess the Penalty Against?

The IRS can assess the TFRP against the business owner, an officer, a partner or an employee.  An owner, partner or officer can be held liable statutorily since they are already liable for other actions taken by the business.

The touchy one is when they go after an employee.  If you prepared the payroll and generally remit tax deposits, the IRS can hold you liable.

If you are/were an employee, the first thing we would do is collect evidence to support the fact that you DID NOT have any control or responsibility.  Easier said than done, but the first step.

III. Can An OIC Solve Your TFRP Problems?

A. The First Step Is to Do a Preliminary OIC Calculation

This is a seat-of-the-pants calculation to give you an idea what your offer will be.

Here’s part 1 of the calculation:

  1. How much is your monthly income?  If the amount is inconsistent, then come up with an average.
  2. What are your monthly expenses?  You’ll need to list these out.
  3. Regarding your monthly expenses, the IRS has limits on many expenses based on where you live.
  4. After paying your bills, you will know what your disposable income is.
  5. This amount is now multiplied by either 12 or 24 depending on how quickly you want to pay the IRS.

The next step is deciding how fast you can remit your offer amount to the IRS. If you use the 24 month amount, you have 24 months (or less) to pay off your liability.

If you use the 12 month amount, you must have your tax bill paid off within 5 months of IRS acceptance.

Part 2 of the calculation is as follows:

  1. Take the calculated amount from above.  We’ll pretend that number is $12,000.
  2. Make a list of all other assets and their purpose, i.e. business or personal.
  3. Exclude assets used for your business.  They must be business assets to exclude.  
  4. Figure out the equity in each asset.  That’s the amount you would get if you sold it. 
  5. As an example, this number is $25,000.  Add this amount to the first calculated amount.
  6. This is your offer to the IRS.  If you owed $250k, the $37k amount looks much better.  If you owed $25k, no bueno.

When attempting an OIC for a TFRP you must understand the “line” for the IRS is much higher. This is money that belongs to your employees, not you.

B. Who can apply?

This is actually pretty straight forward.  You can apply if:

  1. No unfiled or missing tax returns.
  2. Are not in bankruptcy.
  3. If you are the business owner, you must be current through the last 2 quarters with tax payments and employment tax return filing.
  4. If you are including the current year, you must be extended if you haven’t filed yet.

C. How To Apply

If you are an employee, you fill out form 656 and submit with the application fee, any tax deposit required and supporting documentation.   Supporting documentation can be anything from bank statements, bills and invoices you paid, and paystubs.

If you are the business owner, you will need to fill out form 433-OIC instead of form 656.  Depending on the amount owed, you may need to prepare forms 433-A and 433-B.

IV. Apply and Hurry Up and Wait

A. Submit your Offer in Compromise Application

Fill out the appropriate application and submit it with all supporting documentation.

If you make a claim on your application that you feel is important, make sure to include documentation to prove your point.

B. Now We Wait………

The IRS will now go over your application with a fine-tooth comb.  They will prepare their own calculations comparing them to your offer.  They can also corroborate your documentation.  The initial look-through will take around 6 months.

After the initial review, the IRS will most likely reach out to you asking for further corroboration.  They will be inquiring as to whether your financial situation has changed.  If your situation remains the same, they’ll look at the file again before making their decision.

C. Yes, No or We Need to Talk

Based on your application the IRS will either accept your offer or reject it.

Many times, however, they will come back to you with a different offer, or allow you to re-open negotiations.  Keep in mind that they WANT to resolve this case.

Once the IRS accepts your offer, you are required to keep up with your tax filigs, payments and estimate payments.  For the next 5 years, you cannot file or pay late.  You must pay your estimates if required.  You must be a model taxpayer.  Don’t give them an excuse to rescind the agreement, making the entire balance, plus penalty and interest fully due.

VI. What Alternatives Are Available?

A. Installment Agreements

This option allows you to pay the liability off over a period of time.  You have up to 72 months (6 years) to pay the debt.  There is also a possibility of a partial pay Installment Agreement.  If your finances won’t allow for full payment, then there is a possibility of making payments for 72 months and not fully paying the debt. Due to the size of most TFRP’s, a partial pay installment agreement might be the best course of action.

B. Currently Not Collectible (CNC)

This is a temporary fix.  Currently Not Collectible status is a pause in collection activity. This is for taxpayers who are in a temporary bind and only need time to sort things out.  If granted, the IRS will leave you alone, usually for 12 months.

This can be used to buy additional time to figure out your options.

C. Challenge the Trust Fund Recovery Penalty Assessment

THis is the first thing to look at.  The IRS will cast as wide a net as possible to collect their money.  There are two things the IRS looks at:

  1. The duty to perform the collection, accounting for and payment of trust fund taxes (what payroll withholdings are considered).
  2. The power to direct these actions.

The Chief Financial Officer of the company would qualify as a responsible person.  A data entry clerk simply doing what the boss says would not be a responsible person.  Many times, this must be proven to the IRS.

IX. Conclusion to Using an OIC on your TFRP

Finding yourself in this situation can be paralyzing.  Typically, the dollar amount is big.  Huge sometimes.  If there are a lot of employees, the required deposit will be large.  2-3 full-time employees paid twice a month can conservatively amount to $10k per month.  One quarter will then be $30,000 PLUS PENALTY AND INTEREST!

This all becomes even worse if you were an employee and have no ownership stake.  It makes no logical sense that you, as an employee, can be held liable for your employer’s tax debt but in this case it’s possible.

To qualify to apply you must be current on all tax return filings and not currently going through bankruptcy proceedings.

The IRS looks at three things when deciding whether to review your file:

  • Doubt as to Collectability – You don’t/won’t have enough income/assets to full pay.
  • Doubt as to Liability – The IRS made a mistake in assessing the tax.
  • Effective Tax Administration – This is subjective.  Think ‘Do the right thing” as it relates to the IRS.  I use this for elderly clients who will never be able to pay.  Effective tax administration isn’t as readily accepted as the other two options.

For the IRS to accept your offer, you must demonstrate:

  • An inability to fully pay your debt.
  • The hardship you would experience if you paid the debt in full. 
  • The amount offered must be more than the “Reasonable Collection Potential” amount calculated by the IRS using the info you submitted.
  • You must show the ability to pay the offer amount within the repayment period.

The IRS deals with payroll tax debts differently than income tax debts.  Payroll tax deposits is the cash flow the US Government uses for daily operations.

If you find yourself in this situation you need to contact an expert in the field.  The IRS will do everything in their power to collect.  We need to be ready to defend your actions and responsibility to make this bad dream go away.

You Don’t Need To Be Making Big Time Money To Need An LLC

Four reasons why you need an LLC, and three reasons you don’t.

Do you need an LLC? The world is full of people with expectations.  These expectations are generally founded on nothing more than “Joe has one, I must need one too”.

As a business owner, you are constantly presented with choices that can affect your business and life. One such decision is whether to form a Limited Liability Company (LLC) as the legal structure for their business.

Do you need an LLC?  It depends on your situation.  Many tax guys like me suggest that your income level should determine whether you form an LLC or not.  I don’t think your income level is as important as some would lead you to believe. There’s more to this decision than saving on taxes.

I like to look at a clients financial life outside of their business to help determine their needs.  What needs protection?  Is there family or spousal wealth that needs to be considered?  Income level is an important consideration, but so many other things need to be considered.

Let’s be honest.  Saying “I have an LLC” or “I’m incorporated” feels good.  We sound legitimate.  We sound like a real business, like Microsoft or Google.

Let’s take a look at a few reasons why you should and a few reasons why you shouldn’t.  Not everyone needs to house their business within an entity, such as an LLC or Corporation.  Let’s figure out what’s best for you.

Four Big Reasons You Need an LLC

1. Liability Protection Just In Case!

An LLC will protect it’s members (shareholders). This means that your personal assets, are kept separate from the company’s liabilities.

The business will be held liable if you, or an employee or agent of the company does something that caused loss to someone.

In the event that the business faces financial or legal troubles, your personal wealth remains shielded. This protective barrier is a powerful safety net, offering peace of mind and security to entrepreneurs.

If you have employees that drive around on company business, affording yourself additional liability coverage has a lot of benefits.  My employees do drive around to pickup documents from various clients.  I incorporated around the time this was starting up.

2. You Pick How You Want To Be Taxed

This is something that I don’t see a lot of on various “Why You Need an LLC” articles. There are two types of LLC’s you can choose from.

A Single Member LLC (SMLLC) or a Multi Member LLC (MMLLC) are the two types of LLC’s you can pick from.

A Single Member LLC is reported on Schedule C when you file your taxes.  This designation is chosen if there is only one principal to the business. This is the default selection for a one person business.

A MMLLC is a partnership and reported on form 1065.  This is a separate return from your personal return.  Form 1065 will produce K1’s for each partner.  The info on the K1’s is used to prepare each partners individual return.  A K1 is kind of like a W2 for partners.

So far, you can report your LLC’s tax activity as a Sole Proprietor or a Partnership.  You can also elect to be taxed as a corporation by filing form 8832 – Entity Classification Election.

Once you elect corporate status, you then need to decide if you want to be an S Corp or a C Corp.

How you file will depend on your personal (and your partners if any) tax and financial situation.

I’ll write an article on how to choose your entity later.

3. Easy Management Structure

Compared to a corporation, an LLC has much less required annual maintenance.  Other than a tax return, the only other thing you need to do to maintain your LLC status is generally file an information return with your state Secretary of State every other year.  This is also required for corporations, but not for unregistered businesses.  Most business not an LLC or Corp are considered unregistered.

A corporation is required to maintain minutes of shareholder meetings.  Most states require at a minimum, one annual shareholders meeting.  LLC’s have none of these requirements.

4. You’re a REAL BOY Business now!

This reason is the primary reason people form LLC’s, and it’s not a bad reason.  Housing your business in an LLC or corporation tells the world that you are serious about your business.

The cost to form an LLC on MyCorporation.com (it’s who I use) is around $500, l if you do it yourself.  It’ll cost upwards of $2,500 to have an attorney do this for you.  You could probably find a better use of your money this early into your venture.

But.  Perceptions are real.  An LLC appears more like a real business than someone selling oranges out of his trunk.  It’s a perception.  It may not even be real.  The guy selling oranges might have 1,000 other people selling his oranges out of their trunks.  That’s a real business.  But the perception is less than.

Getting financing or other funding is also easier if you are a registered entity, such as an LLC.

Three Important Reasons Why You Don’t Need an LLC

1. Additional Cost and Other Troubles

Setting up an LLC costs money.  Depending on your needs it can cost upwards of $2,500.

In California (and in other states as well) there is an LLC Gross Receipts fee.  They also charge a minimum tax of $800 each year, regardless of whether you have taxable income or not.

You can also count on a higher tax preparation fee.  A Single Member LLC is reported on form Schedule C on your federal return, but there may be additional returns needed at the state level.  These state level returns add at least an additional $250 to your return prep costs.

If you elected to be treated as a Multi Member LLC or as a Corporation (S or C) you can count on an even higher fee to prepare the LLC’s own return.  An properly prepared LLC or corporate return will usually start at around $800.

2. Ever See an LLC as an IPO?

I love LLC’s.  I think they are the perfect entity to hold your business.  You have the liability protection of a corporation, without a lot of the compulsory rules that make having a corporation too much for a small business.

But what if your dream is to build a business, sell it, then build another?  You want the life of a serial entrepreneur.  In this case, an LLC may not be the best choice.

You can absolutely sell your business if it’s not in an LLC or Corporation.  But you won’t receive proper value.  And generally the tax code has more ways to save on taxes if you  sell from a corporation.  Under some circumstances, you could even sell your corporation and reinvest the funds into another small business stock, without paying tax on any possible gains.

Compliance, compliance, compliance.  The biggest headache when having an LLC is the amount of compliance and record keeping that is required.

Let’s talk about record keeping.  Keeping books.  You are required to keep a full general ledger set of books.  A balance sheet, profit and loss, and maybe a cash flow statement are what you should aim for.

Maintaining a good, solid, accurate set of books is essential to running a business.  No one can tell how their business is doing just from “touch”.  Running your business from the seat of your pants is a slow walk to insolvency.  How can you make educated decisions without accurate information?

Compliance is actually the easy part.  Your state Secretary of State will require your LLC to file an information return every (or every other) year.  This is needed so the state has a record of your officers or managers on file.

Conclusion

Do you need an LLC?  Why?  Are you planning on growing, then selling your business?  Have you given any thought to your long term plans?  Do you have a need to protect assets not in use or owned by your business?

The decision to form an LLC to hold your business and its assets is usually the right choice.  The only fault I can find in forming an LLC and using it to hold your business, is the timing.

Here’s what I look for when determining whether an LLC is a proper choice.

  • What is the basis for your business (service or selling product)?
  • What personal assets needs protecting (home, real estate, savings)?
  • Along the same lines, how much income from other sources will you have?
  • What are your long term plans (grow, sell,…)?
  • Will you have employees out in the field?
  • What other kind of liability exposure are you concerned with?

When I mentioned timing above, I mean “When did you form the LLC?” and “Why did you choose that time to form the LLC?”

If you are in business as your livelihood (not some part time gig type endevor) and growth, and possibly passing the business on to heirs are some of your biggest concerns, you will be forming an LLC (or a corporation) eventually.  But there’s no hurry.

I’m not a fan of wasting money on unnecessary expenses.  If you’re serious about starting and growing a business, you will be forming an entity at some point.  Don’t do it before you need it.

Simplified Auto Expense Deduction Rules for the Frugal Entrepreneur in 2023

Don’t be afraid to take the auto expense deductions the law allows, even if the IRS scares the bejesus out of you!

I’ve been self-employed for close to 35 years and one of the first things I learned were the rules for auto expense deductions (gotta learn how to deduct that Dream Porsche!  Damn The Tax Reform Act of 86!).

The aforementioned Tax Reform Act of 1986 (referred as TRA86) started the higher scrutiny on what is and what is not deductible in regards to automobiles. This is our starting point with defining the auto expense deduction rules that will give you the biggest deduction.

1986 introduced the concept of a Luxury Vehicle (anything that cost more than $25k if you can believe it) and the rules for deducting high priced cars.

We’ll also learn about leases and how they are accounted for with a weird little twist at the end.

This article will provide a comprehensive look at auto expense deduction rules for self-employed individuals in 2023.

We’ll cover eligibility, types of deductible expenses, calculation methods, special considerations, record-keeping and reimbursements.

What Are The Rules for Auto Expense Deductions?

Obviously you need to be self-employed and use your car for business purposes. The vehicle can be either used exclusively for business (think like a plumbers van full of knobs and hoses and toilet stuff) or used for both personal AND business purposes (my Porsche which I might take a Sunday drive with). There is no deduction allowed unless there is a business purpose.  Personal vehicles expenses aren’t deductible other than part of the annual state registration.

What Auto Expenses Are Deductible?

Track all expenses.  Gas, oil changes, car washes, repairs and maintenence, registration, parking and tolls, monthly payments…

Track it all.  You may not be able to write it all off, but you might be able to get a bigger deduction if you do.

If you purchased the car, you can write off the interest (not the entire payment) and take depreciation.  If you are leasing the car, you can take the entire lease payment, but you’ll have to add back a “Lease Inclusion” amount based on the fair market value of the vehicle.  Leases will be explained in more detail in the next section.

Leases and why they exist

Leasing a car as a business decision can be a good thing.  A lot of people use them to “have” a nicer car than they can afford.  You’re basically renting a car long term.

This example will be for a vehicle less than 6,000 lbs GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).  Vehicles with a GVWR over 6,000 lbs are treated differently.  I’ll discuss this a little later on in the article.

Leasing For a Business?

But leases for a business are another story.  When you purchase a car you are able to depreciate that vehicle over 5 plus years.

When you lease a car, you get to deduct the lease payments less a small amount called the Lease Inclusion.  The IRS publishes tables showing how much you must add back, based on the FMV of the vehicle.

This usually results in a larger auto expense deduction than depreciation.  But the cost of leasing the car is generally more than if you buy.

Let’s pretend you are buying a delivery van with a retail price of $50k.  At 8% over 5 years, your loan payment will be around $1,000.  If you were to lease that same van, your lease payment would be a lot less, say $650 a month.

On the surface, this looks like a great deal.  $650 is a lot less than $1,000.  But what are you getting?

At the end of the lease, you have the option of buying the car (or what’s called the residual value, which was established when you initially leased the car.  This is generally around 50-60% of the original asking price,  So after leasing the car for 48 months (I usually recommend no more than 36 month terms), you can buy it for $25-30k.

You’ve paid $31,200, the car is 4 years older and they want you to pay $30k to keep the car.  From a financial perspective, this is a lousy deal.

As a business owner, the ability to deduct the actual lease payments generally gives you a better deduction, even when taking depreciation into consideration.  It would be to your advantage to do a buy or lease comparison prior to plunking down your hard earned cash.

Vehicles with an over 6,000 lb GVWR

This is only an issue if you purchase the car (not lease).

If a vehicle has a GVWR of over 6,000 lbs its generally a large or midsize SUV or truck.  A vehicle with a 6,000 GVWR is treated differently and has the ability to deduct much more than vehicles with a GVWR under 6,000.

Vehicles above the 6,000 lb limit have the ability to take more depreciation via Section 179 or Bonus Depreciation rules for 2023.  For 2023 the max section 179 deduction allowed is $28,900.  Under the 6,000 lb threshold, the maximum depreciation you can take the first year is $20,200 (including $8,000 in bonus depreciation).

Calculation Methods for Auto Expense Deductions

Self-employed individuals have two primary methods for calculating auto expense deductions:

  • Standard Mileage Rate Method:
    • The IRS sets a standard mileage rate for each tax year. For 2023, the standard mileage rate is 65.5 cents per mile (this can change mid year like it did in 2022).
    • Self-employed individuals can deduct the business-related mileage by multiplying the total business miles driven during the year by the standard mileage rate.
  • Actual Expense Method:
    • Under this method, self-employed individuals can deduct the actual expenses incurred for the business use of the vehicle. This includes fuel, repairs, maintenance, insurance, depreciation, and other eligible expenses.
    • To use the actual expense method, detailed records of all vehicle-related expenses must be maintained.

Choosing Between Standard Mileage Rate and Actual Expense Method

Miles?  Or actual costs?  Which is higher?

The mileage rate for 2023 is $ .655 per mile.  Drive 20,000 miles for business and you get a $13,100 mileage deduction.

But what were your actual costs?  Repairs, insurance, registration, gas and oil.  Depreciation?  Which is higher?  Doesn’t matter.  Whichever gives you the biggest deduction is the one you get.

The one thing to be aware of, if you do want the option to switch between mileage and actual cost, you must use mileage the first year you use the car for business.

Special Considerations for Luxury Vehicles

Luxury vehicles are treated a little differently in an attempt to not allow people to abuse the tax code and write off a $300k Lamborghini.  Luxury vehicle limits are $58,000 for 2023.  If you purchase a car that cost over $58,000 and has a GWVR under the 6,000 lb threshold, there are special rules involved.

The max allowable depreciation, section 179 and bonus depreciation are all limited.  It’s very likely you will be depreciating a $100k vehicle for up to 13 years.  Car’s are generally depreciated over 5 years.

You MUST Keep Good Records

Accurate and detailed record-keeping is vital when claiming vehicle expense deductions

Get an app for your phone that tracks mileage.  I use MileIQ, but QuickBooks Online has one available as part of its software package.

Stay current with your miles tracking.  Make sure you go out every week and identify business versus personal miles.

Always use a credit or debit card when paying for your vehicle’s expenses.  Cash expenses are harder to prove, even with a receipt.  We have to think like an IRS auditor here.  If you were an auditor, would you be satisfied with your records?

State-Specific Rules to Know

I will admit I have to look up the various state rules I don’t know (I’m in CA).  Most states allow you to deduct your vehicle expenses in the same manner as the feds.  Some are just plain strange and take a percentage of SOME of the expenses.

What I have noticed is they all play off the federal calculation in some way.  This is just one more reason to properly track our total vehicle costs. 

Conclusion

Deducting your vehicle expenses is one of the most scrutinized areas of an IRS auditor.  Knowing the rules and keeping good records will go a long way in keeping you out of trouble in the event of an audit.

There are different rules as to what’s deductible depending on whether you purchased or leased the car.

The type of vehicle also matters.  Cars with a GWVR under 6,000 lbs, cars between 6,000 and 14,000, and vehicles with a GWVR over 14,000 all have a different set of rules.

Make sure you track all your mileage in a contemporaneous manner.  I recommend you put an app on your phone (I use MileIQ) that utilizes the GPS function your phone has.

MileIQ will log all your trips and save the data to their website.  You can then go out to your log and note which trips were for business and which were personal.

At year end you can print a report to help prepare your taxes.